A Journey Around Northern Spain
“To go on pilgrimage really means to step out of ourselves in order to encounter God where he has revealed himself”. POPE BENEDICT XVI
Did you know the Spanish Flu didn’t originate in Spain? Recent studies have found the Spanish flu pandemic actually began in New York in the spring of 1918 (are you listening Donald Trump?). What a revelation!
So why is it called Spanish Flu?
At the end of the First World War (WWI) masses of troops were returning to their home countries, enabling the virus to spread rapidly from country to country. After four years at war with millions of casualties, many countries wanted to suppress news of a new influenza gripping the world. Spain was neutral in WWI and so had freedom of press to report on the pandemic which was now killing more people than the war had done. Spain actually called it the “French flu” assuming it was carried by French troops (it’s all in the marketing!).
In 2008, researchers discovered what made the 1918 flu so deadly: A group of three genes enabled the virus to weaken a victim’s bronchial tubes and lungs and clear the way for bacterial pneumonia (is this sounding too familiar?)
The Spanish flu pandemic lasted for two years, and without a vaccine by the summer of 1919 those that were infected either died or developed immunity. Maybe that gives us an estimate of how long it will be before us travel addicts can start making plans again. I’m already wondering if there will be fundamental changes in the way we travel or where we travel to? I definitely want to engage in more mindful travel; less city breaks to begin with and more outdoor adventures, or even a pilgrimage. There’s nothing like a global pandemic to make you want to go in search of “eternal salvation!”
“I was born free, and that I might live in freedom. I chose the solitude of the fields; in the trees of the mountains I find society, the clear waters of the brooks are my mirrors, and to the trees and waters I make known my thoughts and charms”.
In the Middle Ages people were very afraid of “going to hell” and pilgrimages were seen as the principal way to ensure spiritual salvation.
There are many pilgrimage routes throughout Europe and North Africa, depending on your religion. In the Muslim faith there is the pilgrimage from Mecca to Medina that the prophet Muhammad made; in the Christian faith there were three sacred routes to choose from. Travellers on the route to the tomb of St Peter in Rome were called “wanderers” and their symbol was the cross; those who followed the route to the Holy Sepulchre of Christ in Jerusalem were called “palmists” as their symbol was the palm branch which Jesus was greeted with when he entered the holy city. The third route was followed by “pilgrims” whose symbol is the scallop shell and leads to the remains of St James, the patron saint of Spain who is reportedly buried on the site where the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela now sits.
The Camino de Santiago (The Way of St James) has been on my bucket list for quite some time now. It’s one of Europe’s most ancient pilgrimage routes and covers around 800km from the French Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela in northern Spain.
Fear can be a powerful motivator to make an epic journey and during the 11-13th centuries there were up to half a million pilgrims each year who set out from their homes all over Europe to walk to the shrine of Santiago (St James). Once a pilgrim arrived in Santiago de Compostela their clothes were burned as a symbol of penance and they were given clean clothes to wear into the Cathedral. Here they would pray and make an offering at the altar, then take confession and attend mass.
There are two different routes you can take to Santiago, either the coastal “Camino del Norte” (the North way) through towns such as San Sebastian, Bilbao and Santander; or the more southerly Camino Frances (the French way) which begins in the Pyrenees and runs through Basque towns such as Pamplona and Santo Domingo de la Calzada. The town of Santo Domingo de la Calzada is famous for having chickens in the cathedral. It’s a tall tale of unrequited love, skulduggery, resurrection and a miracle involving a chicken dinner. Intrigued? (check out the full story in The Year we Seized the Day). You’ll not go hungry or thirsty on either of these routes. San Sebastian is well known for its pinxtos (tapas) and La Vina makes the best Basque cheesecake. Cider has been made in this region since the 11th century and just south of Bilbao you have the Rioja wine region.
I’ve read quite a few books on the Camino and most people seem to take the southern Camino Frances. In the book “The 50 Greatest Walks of the World” it’s listed as an easy to moderate walk which should take 30-35 days. Makes it sound simple doesn’t it? In “Unholy Pilgrims” author Tom Trumble thought it was going to be all “sangria and flamenco dancers” but at one point ends up with a bloody nose, a black eye and a smelly football sock gaping through a hole in his hiking boots. Paulo Coelho in “The Pilgrimage” talks about death after being attacked by a dog, and Elizabeth Best (The Year We Seized the Day) tells of infected feet and the tiring heat.
“So, with travel restrictions in place, how can you create your own pilgrimage?”
As this period of uncertainty continues, a personal pilgrimage seems like the obvious choice for a fictional tourist, and I’ve taken up hiking around my local area. “What a revelation this has been!” Always too busy making plans to travel to far off lands, I’ve never actually explored my local national park and walking tracks.
The winter has been mild and the rains have been good this year, so everything is green and even the wildflowers are in bloom; I could easily image myself walking the Camino with my fellow pilgrims. One of the best investments has been walking poles which are fabulous for stability on rocky paths, as well as taking pressure off the knees on downward slopes (and they make you look like a serious hiker, so even a 7 year old pilgrim wants a pair!). I love a hobby that requires dressing up and so gloves, a fleece and of course new hiking boots have been purchased. I also downloaded the NSW National Parks app and I’m sure other states and countries will have something similar. It has maps and gradings for all my local walks as well as others around the State.
Hiking is good for the soul and I always come home bursting with energy and good vibes, exactly like I’ve done a pilgrimage.
My reward after a hard days hiking? Well it just so happens I live in the Riverina food and wine region, so I have plenty of options. For Merienda (afternoon snack), a slice of homemade Basque cheesecake with caramelised oranges and a glass of chilled vermouth; or if it’s La Hora del Aperitivo (tapas hour), some tapas and a glass of bubbles at a winery on the way home is always an option.
For Le Cena (dinner), a warming bowl of Sopa de Ajo. This soup has only 4 essential ingredients due to its peasant origins – stale bread, garlic, smoked paprika and water. After the Spanish Civil war, food was scarce and when stale bread was the only thing available, this soup was an essential source of nourishment.
Perfect for the winter flu season!
Get out and explore your local area, keep healthy and discover your own eternal salvation!
Adios Amigos
